Enjoy life with LP's and Turntables

Take a look at Rega RP1....

2012-02-26T17:25:00.037-08:00

Modded Rega RP1 with Ortofon 2M Blue

RP1 is the new entry level turntable (TT) replacing P1/P2 which have been discontinued. For analog newbies who are anxious to join the Rega camp, they might be interested to know how different is RP1 compared to it's predecessors, P1 & P2? Does RP1 perform better than P1 and P2 or it's just in between?

Let's first take a look at what are the similar parts in RP1, P1 and P2:

1. Plinth - same 18 mm particle board for all three models

2. Sub-platter - same phenolic resin for all three models

3. Pulley - plastic for all three models

4. Belt - black rubber belts for all three models

5. Main bearing - same as P1 (12mm brass bearing); P2 has a heavier duty brass bearing (18 mm, same for P3/P5/Planar 2/3).

6. Motor - same 110V AC synchronous motor for all three models

7. Feet - same rubber feet for all three models

What are the main differences in RP1?

1. Platter

RP1 comes with a moulded phenolic resin platter (~ 600g) which is something new; P1 and P2 both used MDF board platters ( P1, ~700g ; P2, ~1000g ).

2. Tonearm

For RP1, RB101 is a one-piece construction, from headshell to counterweight stub whereas for P1 (RB100) and for P2 (RB250/RB251) the tonearms are both with removable plastic stub. All three models use steel counterweights.

After spinning the RP1 with ortofon OM5e, I find it sounds pretty good out of box, better than a stock P1. Personally I can't conclude if it's better than P2 though some reviews favour it as compared to P2. But I am definitely not comfortable with those resin and plastic parts on this RP1...

If you have the itch to tweak like me, just try out the following tweaks for P1 and P2 which could also be done on RP1 for good sonic improvements:

Step 1 : plug and play

Acrylic platter, aluminium sub-platter, silicone belt, underslung counterweight

Step 2 : with some handyman skills

Stainless steel dual pulley, motor base, thrust bearing, aluminium feet

Step 3 : A good cartridge of your choice

The cartridge's job is to pick up what's produced from the record groove to be amplified by the amplifier. It's never wrong to get a good cartridge, but it's not worth having one if what it's being picked up from the record groove is not optimal. When a TT is properly tweaked, it definitely deserves a good cartridge which can proudly perform to its best ....

Enjoy!

Other choices of TT PSU for Rega turntables....

2012-02-08T21:00:00.000-08:00

It's not easy to make a choice or decision in life; at times more choices could be more confusing.......

But in our analog tweaking path, it's a completely different story; we wish to have more choices so that we can select the one which best suits our budget and usage. And for those who are looking for speed accuracy and stability via external power supplies, you would not be disappointed as there are also other after market PSUs' which will work fine with the Rega turntables (230V or 110V AC) :

1. Pro-ject speed box SE II

This electronic speed control is for Pro-ject and other turntables. It can be used for both 230V and 16V AC turntables. Besides the standard 33/45 rpm speed selections, the motor speed is fine adjustable in +/- 20 steps. Another point to take note is the belt is required to be on the 45 rpm pulley slot while in use with this PSU .

2. Music Hall Cruise Control 2.0

Music Hall Cruise Control 2.0 which is cost effective, can be used for both 120V and 16V AC turntables. With nominal speed selections of 33 and 45 rpm, you can spin 78 rpm lp's by fitting an optional 78 rpm pulley. It also has a 20 step/0.1 rpm pitch (or speed) control adjustment for you to fine tune to your desirable speed. The Cruise Control requires the belt to be on the 45 rpm pulley slot.

3. Heed Orbit

Heed Orbit can be used with any turntable with a 4 pole, 110V AC synchronous motor and similar to other PSU's, by a push button the speed can be changed between 33.3 and 45 rpm.

However for Heed Orbit 1 outputs @110V AC, it requires a small modification (removing the capacitor used to provide phase shift) on the motor circuitry.

Heed Orbit 2 outputs @230V AC is more straight forward, a Plug N'Play upgrade (no modification required) for 230V turntables which use 110V AC synchronous motors.

Other than those mentioned above, there are also many other third party and DIY TT PSUs' available in the market. It would be fun to find out more for yourself!

When looking for a TT PSU, always remember to check with the PSU suppliers first to confirm whether your turntable is compatible with the particular model of PSU you are interested in e.g. operating voltage (110V, 230V, .....), mains supply frequency (50Hz/60Hz), pulley slot for belt position (33/45rpm)...

Next.... of course is to google and compare the prices ..... which I think you would definitely know better than I do......

Rega Turntable Power Supply Unit ( TT PSU )

2012-02-06T16:45:00.000-08:00

Why the need for a TT PSU ?

Rega belt-drive turntables are using AC synchronous motors. The speed of an AC synchronous motor is dependent on the frequency (50Hz or 60Hz) of the power supply which means any fluctuation in this frequency is going to affect the speed of TT motor and thus the sound effect of the turntable.

Basically when we desire a stable power supply with very low distortion to run our turntable , a TT PSU which uses a crystal locked low sine wave distortion generator will help to do the job. The TT PSU will bring about better frequency stability and thus sonic improvement to our system especially if the power supply for the location is not clean.

Rega outborad power supply, TT PSU

The Rega TT PSU outboard power supply developed for Rega P7 can also be used for P3-24 and P5 as both P3-24 and P5 are having 24V AC synchronous motors too.

The are two speed selections (33 and 45 rpm) with a simple push button on this TT PSU. But the speed of this TT PSU is not user adjustable to slightly higher or lower speeds other than these two selected speeds.

Clearly, for earlier models of Rega turntables which run on 230V or 110V motors, this TT PSU cannot be used directly. The turntable motor must be first upgraded to 24V motor before it could be interfaced with the 24V output of this TT PSU.

At this point you may ask : is TT PSU a necessary upgrade? I would say it all depends ...

Michael Fremer said in turntable review , Stereophile :

"The TT PSU, an optional outboard power supply originally developed for the Rega P7 turntable, produces a stable voltage, synthesized by a quartz oscillator, that drives the motor more precisely. It also permits convenient pushbutton selection of the P3-24's two speeds (33 and 45rpm). It's not retrofittable to the original P3, unfortunately.

Gandy told me that the TT PSU offers a "small improvement" that can't be quantified. "It's not enormous," he admitted, adding that the better the incoming electricity, the less noticeable will be the sonic improvement........."

So it depends on if you are comfortable with the condition (stability) of power supply in your area or if you would like to enjoy the benefit of easy switching between 33.3 rpm and 45 rpm by push button instead of manually adjusting belt positions on the pulley (in the case without a TT PSU). The belt will remain in 33.3 pulley slot, whether you are spinning 33.3 or 45 rpm Lp's, if you have the Rega TT PSU.

The choice is yours.

Take note there are two versions of Rega TT PSU:

i) 50Hz TT PSU

This is supplied with all P7 turntables (P7 uses 24V, 50Hz motor and a 50Hz pulley). It is also for the upgrade of any 50Hz turntable with 24V motor( e.g P3-24, P5 ).

ii) 60Hz TT PSU

This is for the upgrade of 60Hz turntables with 24V motors. This US version TT PSU cannot be used with P7.

Read more on >> Other choices of TT PSUs' .....

I enjoy the analog sound very much now.....

2012-02-02T20:19:00.000-08:00

" I enjoy the analog sound very much now! " - said Csaba of Hungary

This is great news to me and I am always glad to hear this from fellow tweakers!

Whatever system you have and whatever upgrade path you take, the important point to remember is : you must be happy with what you are hearing!

It's interesting to be in this analog world. Every system is unique, with or without upgrades. There's no two systems which would sound identical, in fact. And that's what makes tweaking turntables fun and challenging!

What a wonderful hobby we have!

Sharing with you here Csaba's Rega Planar 3 with latest upgrade of stainless steel double-pulley:

Pictures: courtesy of Csaba of Hungary

Planar 3

Planar 3 with dual pulley

Thank you Csaba!

Mike's mechanics - The Star's AudioFile review

2012-01-23T03:52:00.000-08:00

Monday January 23, 2012

Mike’s mechanics

By LIM JUAN

A fancy lot of bits and bobs for those who can’t leave their Rega turntables alone.

I TESTED a locally-made replacement acrylic platter for Rega turntables some years back for AudioFile, and came away impressed. The protagonist behind that item has been busy and since then, produced, among other replacement/upgrade parts, an aluminium sub-platter, silicon rubber belts, a stainless steel pulley which will allow two belts to be fitted, and a thrust bearing to be glued to the bottom of Rega’s motor.

These have come to be known as the “Michael Lim upgrade parts”. Lim (no relation to moi) seems disinclined to coin an official brand name for his items, preferring to be a hobbyist who is willing to sell stuff he’s made to others.

Charge that Rega! These are among the numerous aftermarket parts available for Rega turntables (above and below).

“I need something fun to do in my retirement,” says he.

It was an opportune time to test some of these items as I recently acquired a mint used Rega P1. The test procedure was not ideal as Lim supplied a separate P1 turntable already fitted with the replacement parts, but I was able to substitute some of them back and forth to the point I felt confident with my observations to report them.

Rotating parts

My first observation is that unless one replaces the bog standard MDF platter on the stock P1 with something better, these tweaks won’t give optimum returns for the money. Improving the platter made the most noticeable difference, and also allowed the other replacement parts’ perceived differences to come forth.

Naturally, I used Lim’s acrylic platter, but he opines that one would get good mileage from Rega’s own glass platters.

I then tried using the original Rega sub-platter in the modded P1, and compared the results to that with the aluminium sub-platter in the stock P1, first listening to each in “before” and “after” modes respectively. My perception here was that the cumulative effect of the metal pulley, twin belts and the thrust bearing on the motor made a more significant difference than one would get from merely substituting the aluminium sub-platter into a stock P1.

The combined effect of these bits brought a better sense of drive and resolution of detail, the last no doubt the result of a lowered noise floor. The basic P1 rhythmic throb and sense of propulsion in the music is not diminished, but sonic images now come across as more solid and present, with sharper outlines and better scale and dimension. I perceived a cleaner sounding treble also.

Listening to the aluminium sub-platter in isolation in the stock P1, one senses a slightly quieter background and more stable images – noticeable, but hardly earth shattering, for the money. As the single most expensive of Michael’s replacement parts, targeting the sub-platter as first change may not be the most sensible, at least when upgrading a stock P1.

Cumulatively, the modded P1 (with acrylic platter) certainly sounded like a superior turntable to the P1 (also when with acrylic platter). Somewhat surprisingly, I now thought the stock version to be somehow more listenable on certain material in spite of its sonic inferiority.

With the better ambience and clearer detail retrieval, one notices all the more the “leftover” weaknesses from the stock P1, that of pitch instability, painfully highlighted by spinning Beethoven’s Piano Sonatas. On one passage from Appasionata, the modded P1 conveyed the impression the pianist might have been mildly sea sick. You’ll find yourself considering the Rega (official) motor upgrade in no time!

The circle game

These upgrade parts would perhaps be more effective when one is contemplating modding a higher Rega model (especially an older sample thereof) and not so much for improving a “starter” P1. Note that use of the dual pulley means one loses the 45rpm function if one does not have electronic speed selection.

These bits (save for the acrylic platter and silicon belt) don’t depart from the engineering choices Rega itself implements in its superior models. Rega, however, does not sell such parts individually to allow lower model owners to upgrade them.

Lim’s prices are attractive and the results are good, so they warrant being checked out if you are wondering how to get better sound from your LPs on a Rega table without having to spend large sums.

Read more on : The Star's AudioFile review.......

Bassa Nova... Samba....

2012-01-13T06:22:00.000-08:00

I love listening to Dave Brubeck's Bassa Nova USA. I also enjoy Elvis's Bassa Nova Baby very much! And when I think of Bassa Nova, I think of the Brazilian......

Bassa Nova style is genuinely Brazilian.

And samba, well-loved around the world, is best-known to be a symbol of Brazilian musical expression and Brazilian carnival too. So don't you think Brazilians are very musically people?

Today may I have the honour to share with you here some pictures sent by Thiago from this beautiful land of Brazil:

Thiago has a Rega P5 which is recently upgraded using my dual pulley, silicone belts, aluminium sub-platter, VTA spacer and acrylic platter. Just to mention, he is one of the first overseas friends I come to know through this blog. A very pleasant person to deal with, he took great trouble to send me his feedback after each upgrade. I really appreciate his effort!

Thanks, Thiago!

Pictures : courtesy of Thiago of Brasília, Brazil

Thiago's Rega P5

Double pulley and silicone belts upgrade

Here's Thiago's comment on pulley upgrade:

"Greater bass control, and AIR. I guess this is one of the best descriptions of this upgrade: a lot of air showed off, giving room for a more natural and envolving sound. I really appreciated this little piece."

Aluminium sub-platter upgrade

Thiago's feedback on aluminium sub-platter upgrade:

"It took a little while to settle down, but once it did, it was marvelous. I also took the opportunity too re-align the cartridge and the counterweight, so the improvement was huge."

Acrylic platter upgrade

"Sonically speaking, it seems to have opened a little more my system, without compromising its bass response. It's still too soon, my I guess I'll enjoy this upgrade." - Thiago's initial impression on acrylic platter upgrade.

3.8mm VTA spacer was used to accommodate the rubber/cork mat

Experimenting with the rubber/cork mat, Thiago was happy with the result; he said:

" I really enjoyed the acrylic platter and Cork mat combo. The cork mat hás smoothed the analytic sound that the acrylic gives. And it also tightened the bass, playing a full bodied sound. "

Thanks again, Thiago for everything!

Modding Rega Planar 3 for my friend.....

2012-01-05T18:24:00.000-08:00

A friend of mine in Kuala Lumpur has a wonderful system. Here's the pictures of his listening area. I have helped him to mod his Rega Planar 3 with all the accessories designed for my own Planar.

His complete system with JM Lab speakers

Fully modded Rega Planar 3

Aluminium sub-platter upgrade

Motor isolation base and stainless steel pulley upgrade

Acrylic platter upgrade

Under-slung counter-weight, 3-point VTA spacer

Other upgrades not shown on the pictures includes silicone belts, thrust bearing and acrylic isolation platform.

Thanks, brother, for sharing the pictures with us. And I am happy that the Planar 3 sings you beautiful music now!

Handling Rega motor speed problem....it's turning slower and slower ....

2012-01-03T17:23:00.000-08:00

After years of spinning and singing beautiful music to you, one day you may just find your faithful turntable looks tired i.e. the motor speed is inconsistent, as if it's turning slower and slower.

How to check where the problem lies?

Try these few simple steps first:

1. Check if the ball bearing in the main bearing housing is missing (use a piece of magnet or a straw of diameter ~4.5mm). You may use a steel ball bearing of diameter 4.762mm or (3/16") if required.

2. Add one or two drops of suitable lubricating oil (e.g. hypoid gear oil grade 80W90 or light motor oil grade SAE20 or 30) into the main bearing.

3. Put two or three drops of the same oil onto the sub-platter spindle and insert it back into the bearing housing. Let it go down slowly until touching the ball bearing.

4. Make sure that the sub-platter surface is clean- free from dirt or oil.

5. Check if the belt is stretched. Over-stretched belt should be replaced as belt slippage will cause poor energy transfer for turning the sub-platter/platter assembly efficiently. Speed stability would be greatly affected.

6. Check if the pulley is tight on the spindle. Pulley plays a very important role in transferring energy to turn the sub-platter/platter assembly. Inefficient energy transfer by a "poor" (in quality or not tightly fitted) pulley would result in speed instability, hence pitch instability. A very loose pulley can even ride higher up the spindle as the motor spins and rubs against the platter or it's so loose that the motor can't even drive it to move the platter.

In fact most of the plastic pulleys tend to get loose on the spindle due to deterioration of super-glue over time. Try to pull and see if it comes off. If it's so, you may glue it back using super-glue or you could take this opportunity to treat yourself to a stainless steel pulley upgrade for better energy transfer which brings about significant sonic improvement.

Hope your motor speed problem is solved at this point and you won't have to read on!

But for Rega Planar 2 or 3 turntables, you may encounter additional problems after fixing the new belt i.e not only the motor speed problem is not completely solved, you feel as though:

...The motor is kicking the platter

...The motor is rubbing the plinth

...There is sound of friction

Why it happens after changing to a new belt, you may ask....

Let's look at the Rega Planar 2 or 3 suspended motor mounting:

The motor is held by using rubber suspension band to the aluminium mounting plate which is screwed onto the plinth.

As time goes by, the rubber suspension band looses its elasticity. The motor not only wobbles more, it also tends to slant towards one side. After fixing the new belt, we find the motor/pulley experiences a bigger tension resulting it to knock/rub against the plinth.

To confirm this point, run the motor without the belt on for a while to see if the sound of friction exists. Then put the belt back again and run the motor to compare the result.

And there are a few ways to solve this Rega motor rubber suspension band problem:

1. Change the rubber suspension band, but the motor would still wobble causing speed variations, hence pitch instability.

2. Discard the rubber suspension band and use double-sided tape to mount the motor to the plinth instead, à la P3-24. This will solve the wobbling problem but the motor vibration would be transmitted to the plinth, whence to the record and stylus.

3. Go for Rega motor upgrade (110V or 24V), but it's costly (moreover, motor is not the cause) and besides, the problem of motor vibration to the plinth will not be completely eliminated, though you get some improvement due to lower vibration motor with aluminium pulley.

4. Resolve to motor isolation base which isolates motor completely from plinth. I have done that for my own Planar 2 and 3.

When Jani of Finland communicated with me when he was facing this problem, I suggested to him to use the motor isolation base. Motor upgrade is not really necessary in my opinion.

And here is Jani's reply after mounting his motor to the motor isolation base :

I decided to do it your way instead of upgrading the motor. Why fix something that is

not broken? The broken part would be the rubber suspension for the motor, which

was probably tired and did not allow for the replacement of a new Rega silicone belt.

The new belt drew the pulley out of alignment which resulted in an annoying click

when the silicone belt wobbled.

Not so anymore!

Read more on ...... Jani's joyful experience!

Merry Christmas and a Prosperous New 2012 Year !

2011-12-16T08:37:00.001-08:00

Playing old lp's on an aged turntable is quite unbelievable to some people. And if you were to ask the young kids today, "What is a turntable?"

They will give you the answer : " Something of long ago..."

True, turntable is something of long ago. But few realize that it has survived through different era. In fact, many of them are "revived" and "face-lifted" to start anew after being long forgotten in the dark corner for decades.

This is the most amazing part of turntable.

And I am even more amazed by the beautiful warm music of turntable......

Let's enjoy more analog music!!!

Santa Claus also plays lp's!

Merry Christmas

and

A Prosperous New Year !!!

Good piece of engineering.....

2011-12-16T03:09:00.001-08:00

"Good piece of engineering......" Wolfgang of Germany commented on the double pulley after he had installed it. He also told me that it's a worthwhile upgrade for his Rega P25 turntable.

He had sent me some pictures showing how he removed the turntable pulley and you wouldn't believe how wonderful this simple pulley puller was until you see it!

Pictures : courtesy of Wolfgang of Germany

The DIY pulley puller

"Since it is not advisable to pull the aluminum pulley towards the bearing I have bought a rectangular ordinary steel tube (30x20x1.5 mm) from a hardware store and formed this "puller" with simple manual tools, the screw is M3 with some cone shaping at the end." said Wolfgang.

DIY pulley puller in action

Rega P25 with dual pulley

Thanks to Wolfgang for sharing with us his fantastic idea here. Now we have got another new DIY way of removing the pulley!

And, last but not least, I want to say to Wolfgang is :

"My friend, this is a good piece of engineering too..... . "

Work on your dream DIY turntable ......

2011-12-12T05:06:00.002-08:00

Congratulations, Edmar! It's really a wonderful TT you have here!

I believe this is a dream turntable for many turntable enthusiasts especially those who love DIY projects.

Thanks, Edmar for sharing these pictures with us.

Pictures : courtesy of Edmar of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Edmar's new turntable is based on Rega P5, RB301 tonearm and some other upgrade accessories. Take a look, he has taken this opportunity to cleverly isolate the motor from the main plinth i.e. the motor is mounted on the motor isolation base and placed firmly on the bottom platform. Motor vibration to the plinth is greatly reduced in this case.

Motor mounted on motor base

The stainless steel dual pulley is another upgrade Edmar has included in his project. Keeping close to higher series of Rega models, the plinth stands on three aluminium feet like that of P9.

Main bearing, stainless steel dual pulley, P9 aluminium feet

Rega RB301 tonearm

Thick(~2") acrylic plinth :450x360x52mm

on acrylic platform : 450x360x20mm

Acrylic platform : 450x360x20mm (bottom)

Now I feel like working on a new project...... like this ......

A simple upgrade for Rega Planar 3 to begin with ......

2011-12-06T19:56:00.000-08:00

I would like to thank Paul Sheehan of England for sending me pictures of his system with the following simple upgrades:

Standard stainless steel pulley, silicone belt and motor thrust bearing

Pictures: courtesy of Paul Sheehan

Rega Planar 3

Ortofon 2M Red cartridge

A&R Cambridge A60E amplifier (built in 1981 !)

Mortdaunt Short Pagent 2 speakers, fitted with small spikes,

connected using QED79 strand speaker cable

And here is Paul's feedback:

" I have been using the turntable for a couple of days now and I'm pleased with the way it sounds.......

The sound is very open and detailed, and I can also hear a very quick response when percussion occurs.

The stereo separation is so excellent. The deck itself is silent when running."

Thank you, Paul!

Standing and Singing better on new feet !

2011-10-30T21:04:00.007-07:00

Aluminium feet for Rega turntables

( Model AF-3, USD48.00 for 3pcs)

Turntable feet are important; they prevent or reduce the ground-borne vibrations from reaching the turntable plinth and thus interfering with the proper tracking of the record grooves by the stylus. Most budget turntables come with rubber feet, e.g. Rega RP1 to P5, Pro-ject 1.2, Linn Axis and Thorens TD295MKIII. Rubber feet offer basic isolation but not good enough for "audiophile" decks.

We notice quite a number of the expensive models of turntables in the market are equipped with aluminium feet instead of just rubber feet for better sonic performance.

(Pro-ject RPM9.1 aluminium feet )>>

These aluminium feet are usually either rubber-damped or sorbothane-damped.

(Aluminium feet for Rega P7 ) >>

New Aluminium feet

I have upgraded my Planar 3 feet with aluminium feet (à la Rega P7/P9 feet ) of anti-resonance design, retrofit with the existing Rega rubber feet - going green!

Besides significant sonic improvement , the TT with the new aluminium feet now stands firmer and taller (by~ 1/2" or 12 mm) allowing more room for the thicker tonearm wires.

Useful notes on installation:

1. Smear some vaseline on the rubber before pressing it into the aluminium feet.

2. With the help of a screw driver, press fit the rubber into the the aluminium feet.

Magic with sand

An interesting test you may want to try :

Seal the bottom holes of Rega rubber feet (e.g using tape) and fill them up with sand. Then retrofit them to the new aluminium feet and test. It is surprising - I used to listen with volume control set between 9 to 9.30 o'clock, but now I can get the same result between 8.30 to 9.0 o'clock and the background noise is quieter.

*About 20g (or 0.7 oz) of sand will do and if you don't like it, you can always reverse it easily!

The new aluminium feet are suitable upgrades for Rega turntables, model RP1, RP3, P1, P2, P3, P3-2000, P3-24, P5, P25, Planar 2 and Planar 3.

It's a joyful experience ......

2011-10-03T04:39:00.000-07:00

Jani Edström of Finland said :

Listening to the Rega Planar 2 with the new pulley and motor-base is a joyful experience. Everything falls
into place. Surface noise is much lower, the music more together. Bass is deeper and more distinct. There

is more details in all registers. Transients are more convincing. Perspective is better.

In short: the artists deliver better music than ever before in my system.

So what was achieved?
A better technical solution and most likely better sound without changing the motor. Costs were about

the same as the motor upgrade, not counting the costs of installation the motor upgrade. That is the

motor-base is a less expensive alternative than doing the motor upgrade.

The motor-base not touching the plinth reduces vibrations more than just changing the motor. The only

touching point is between double pulley and the two red silicone belts. Good thinking!

Jani had also taken the trouble to send me pictures of how he installed the motor base and double pulley in detail. He said :

The procedure of changing the pulley and installing the motor-base did not take long, a couple of hours

perhaps and two large cups of coffee. I was guided by the excellent pictures on your website, thank you!

What I realized when I was almost finished was that the motor-base actually stands on the same surface

as the player, not "hanging" in the provided rubber mesh.

And so kind of him to remind me that I had missed out the following picture in my earlier post:

One picture was missing, that of the final result from under the deck may be helpful for those who think

about upgrading their deck this way.

So what next? Nothing other than serious music listening at the moment.
Maybe sub platter and counterweight later on just to see how far you can take a Planar 2.
Right now I did the right thing and what is better than knowing that?

- Jani Edström

Thank you Jani!

Thanks for sharing with us your joyful experience and wonderful pictures!

Jani Edström also sent another feedback on the aluminium sub-platter upgrade recently:

"Hi Michael,

I have now replaced the old Rega sub-platter with your custom made aluminium

sub-platter. It was an easy procedure following your instructions. The new sub-

platter is very tight so I had to give it a little downward push for it to settle in the

bearing housing.

The change was quite subtle at first comparing with installing the motor-base and

changing to the metal double-pulley. However, after letting the new sub-platter run

for a few hours and while spinning some of my favorite LP's I started noticing

changes in the sound. The changes are perhaps best described as more of everything,

adding depth in the base as well as in the general soundscape. The background

grew quieter as well the more I let the deck run. I noticed I raised the volume on

the music because of the low background noise level.

So, thank you again Michael for yet another fine and affordable upgrade device

for the good old Rega.

All the best

Jani Edström

Thanks again, Jani!

From the land of mid-night sun : Harry's Planar 3 upgrades .....

2011-10-01T01:17:00.000-07:00

I would like to express my heartiest thanks to Harry of Norway for having the trust to use all my upgrade products save for the existing upgraded counterweight on his Rega Planar 3 .....

Pictures : courtesy of Harry, Norway

Trichord Dino Riia phono stage, Krell Kav-300iL amplifier,

Rauna Leira transmission line speakers

(made of concrete)

Rega Planar 3 with Audio Technica OC9, 24mm acrylic platter

Harry's feedback on the upgrades in his system:

The sound has improved in every aspect. I really love it .....

And also thanks for the pictures, Harry!

There's more than one way to skin a cat !

2011-09-28T07:23:00.000-07:00

How to remove Rega pulleys? An often asked question.

The answer is : there's more than one way to skin a cat ! Let's see:

diviy (UK) in vinylengine :

My pulley just popped off under finger pressure and I can refit mine if I wanted to.

bhutton (USA) in vinylengine :

I popped the plastic pulley on my P2 with flat of a screwdriver twisted to exert pressure and it came off fairly easily.

mattlynch (UK) in vinylengine :

alternately and this is the hack method!! get two flat blade screw drivers seated between pulley and motor and then....

bacobits (USA) in vinylengine :

I carefully used 2 same sized screw drivers, and it worked, go slowly. I used some Acetone on a cotton swab, not soaked, dabbed the top of the old pulley, let it set a few minutes. I also had paper towels around the shaft of the motor to not get any down the shaft.....

plastico (Canada) in vinylengine :

When I took off my pulley I put a paint scraper under the pulley to protect the plinth. While I applied heat with a mini torch-directly on top of the pulley, I gently pried upwards with a fork and it came off lickidy-split.

From my own experience, for Planar 2/3 the plastic pulley can be pulled out easily without even using a drop of acetone. Really easy. But for Rega P1 and above, we have to use blades of two screwdrivers to pry them out (after applying some acetone or nail polish removal). It takes more effort for aluminium pulleys (P3-24 and P5 ) and heat would help in the process.

And today we have good news from Thomas of Denmark!

He is going to share with us the professional way of removing an aluminium pulley using the proper pulley puller:

Instructions :

Function of the puller :
When turning the big metal cone in the middle, you can change the distance between the two jaws of

the puller and make them have a firm grip in the pulley groove. At the end of the center spindle, you

can put an old 2.5 mm diameter sawed-off drill bit (or anything like that). It fits perfectly to the top of the

motor spindle which is approx 2.8 mm in diameter. After tightening the jaws to the groove of the pulley,

and centering the drill bit to the top of the motor spindle (eventually use fingers to keep it centered), it

only takes a few turns with the puller - and the pulley is up and away!
Remember first a little drop of acetone.

So with this little device:
No fiddling with screw-drivers!
No scratches on the plinth surface.
But most important: No harm to the motor, spindle or bearings.
After having removed the stock pulley as described, I turned on the motor, and it was immediately

spinning just as smooth and quiet, as it always has been.

Where to buy the device:
I am sure, you can buy the puller in stores, where they sell repair tools for cars or bicycles.
The amount (here in Denmark) was just around 35 USD (200 DKK).

This is cheaper than a new motor :-)

I hope, these few guidelines will be a help to upcoming "upgraders" of Rega decks.

Thomas Nielsen

Silkeborg

Denmark

Thanks , Thomas, for your generosity to share with us the pictures and instructions!

Read more on >> Thomas' comments ...... more PRaT ..... more layers ......

More PRaT ..... and more "layers"..... for Rega P3-24

2011-09-24T03:12:00.000-07:00

I am glad to receive a mail from Thomas Nielsen of Denmark that my stainless steel double/dual pulley has brought more "PRaT" to his Rega P3-24 turntable.

Thank you, Thomas, for allowing me to publish your comments to share with others.

Hi Mr. Lim!

A few days ago, I received the double pulley for my Rega TT.

Luckily I could borrow a "professional" mini-puller where I work (a fire-department

in Silkeborg), so it was very easy to pull off the stock pulley, without any harm to

the motor.

And I must say, that I am very pleased with the result:
Rotation is now rock stable, and maybe for the first time I have recognized the meaning

of PRAT. I know, it's said before - but I hear more "layers" in the music, and more than

before, I can not only hear, but almost physical "see" through the speakers and into

the recording studio!
Strange?? But that's a fact!

I am sure, I can now look forward to many joyful listening sessions!

Best regards

Thomas Nielsen
Silkeborg
Denmark

What is "PRaT"?

"PRaT" stands for "Pace, Rhythm and Timing".

"PRaT" is definitely not new to any audiophile as in music appreciation and enjoyment, we always hear audiophiles talk about the "musicality" of their systems in terms of "PRaT". The more "PRaT" is taken to be better of course! (And many have chosen Rega turntables also because of Rega's "PRaT" factor).

"PRaT" also looks like an important parameter to audiophiles for "measuring" the system they are "listening" to. The same is true in tweaking and comparing turntables.

I am an engineer and technically speaking, in music appreciation, I don't know exactly what parameters to use in measuring it, until someone throws some light on this concept that I am always curious about ....

When the music is on, how do you react to it?

Toe-tapping....with the music?

Head nodding.....with the music ?

Feel like humming and dancing along..... with the music......?

Simply want to listen and enjoy more.... and more..... of the music.......?

Your emotions....your feelings......

Yes, your emotions and feelings will tell you the answer .....

*Read more on >> Thomas' professional way to remove Rega pulley ....

List of upgrade accessories for Rega turntables

2011-09-17T16:56:00.000-07:00

1. Acrylic platter

model APLT - USD130.00

........... more details >>

2. Aluminium sub-platter

model ALSP1 - USD150.00

........... more details >>

3. Record clamp/weight (solid brass)

with bull's eye level

model RC1 - USD20.00

........... more details >>

4. Standard (33.3/45 rpm) metal (stainless steel) pulley

50Hz (model MP1) - USD32.00

60Hz (model MP2) - USD32.00

........... more details >>

5. Double/dual ( 33.3/33.3 rpm)Pulley

50Hz (model DP1) - USD35.00

60Hz (model DP2) - USD35.00

........... more details >>

6. Silicon belt

model SB1 - USD20.00

........... more details >>

7. Motor isolation base

model IB22 - USD100.00

........... more details >>

8. Thrust bearing assembly

model TB1 - USD12.95

........... more details >>

9. Underslung Counter-weight with end-stub

model CWT- USD100.00

(with flexible add-on thumb screw weights options...

check out for details ....)

........... more details >>

i) Counter-weight w/o end-stub - USD69.00

ii) End-stub only - USD31.00

........... more details >>

10. Serrated 3-point VTA spacers

2.3mm VTA spacer(model SP1) - USD19.50

3.8 mm VTA spacer(model SP3) - USD25.90

........... more details >>

11. Acrylic isolation platform with metal spikes

(Model AP20m - USD110.00)

(448mm x 360mm x 20mm, approximately 4kg)

........... more details >>

12. Aluminium isolation feet (3 pcs) retrofit existing Rega rubber feet

(Model AF-3 - USD48.00 per set of 3 pcs)

............more details >>

List of upgrade accessories for Rega turntables :

1. Acrylic platter (APLT) - USD130.00

2. Aluminium sub-platter (ALSP1) - USD150.00

3. Record clamp (RC1) - USD 20.00

4. Standard pulley(33.3/45rpm) MP1/MP2 - USD 32.00

5. Dual pulley (33.3/33.3rpm) DP1/DP2 - USD 35.00

6. Motor isolation base (IB22) - USD100.00

7. Silicone belt (SB1) - USD 20.00

8. Motor thrust bearing(TB1) - USD 12.95

9. Counterweight (CWT) - USD(69.00+31.00) = USD100.00

10a. 3-point VTA spacer 2.3mm (SP1) - USD 19.50

10b. 3-point VTA spacer 3.8mm (SP3) - USD 25.90

11. Acrylic isolation platform (AP20m) - USD110.00

12. Aluminium feet (AF-3), set of 3 pcs - USD48.00

My email : lpturntables@gmail.com

Feel free to contact me if you are interested to upgrade your turntables with these accessories. I would be most happy to assist you in whatever way I can.

Enjoy life with Lp's and turntables ......

................ a wonderful analog experience for the rest of us

Tips on upgrading Rega Planar 3 ......

2011-09-16T02:49:00.001-07:00

A popular turntable in the 70's, Rega Planar 3 is more than thirty years old now. Leaving the age aside, it does not lose out to some of the new Regas in appearance and in performance. If we were to compare, we would find Planar 3 and the new models not only basically look similar, there's not much difference in design and construction other than the upgraded motor in later models.

Many analog enthusiasts today still regard Planar 3, with 18 mm diameter heavy duty main bearing housing, a good-sounding turntable and would rather restore or upgrade a Planar 3 than to get a new RP1, P1, P2 or even P3........ . If you have a Planar 3 or Planar 2 that's not modded, here's the tips for substantial sonic improvement with simple upgrades!

In this post I am going to show you step by step upgrades for a Rega Planar 3 turntable since I have received many enquires particularly on motor base upgrade for this turntable. I will also include all other possible upgrades for easy reference at a glance. Hope it would be helpful to those who are going for these Planar 3 tweaks.

Step 1 : Metal pulley, motor isolation base and thrust bearing

i) Changing the pulley :

For most Planar turntables, the pulley which is glued down on the spindle is easily removed by hand as the glue has deteriorated over time.

Fix the stainless metal pulley ( standard or dual) after applying a bit of light oil on the spindle. Tighten the set screw with allen key.

ii) Removing the motor :

Unscrew the two black screws to loosen the motor mounting bracket. The motor which is held by rubber band to the bracket is now loosely cradled within the motor compartment by the back cover.

Now we need to overturn the turntable to work on the motor. Before doing so, make sure to :

i) remove the platter

ii) lock the tonearm.

iii) place a piece of cloth (or any soft material) of sufficient thickness on top of the the sub-platter to block the sub-platter and bearing from falling out when the turntable is turned over.

With the cloth in place, close the lid. Put the turntable upside down on the work place such that it rests on the lid.

(Put some newspapers or soft material on the surface of work place to prevent the plastic lid from being scratched.)

When turned upside down, the sub-platter stays in place together with and ball bearing. No messy mishaps like lubricating oil spills out or ball bearing goes missing.....

Open the motor compartment using a suitable screw driver.

Now you can see how the motor is held by elastic band to the plinth and what it's meant by the motor "sways (wobbles) with music" which results in speed inconsistency and affects the performance of the turntable.

Remove the motor mounting bracket and elastic band.

iii) Fixing the motor base and thrust bearing :

Bend the motor flange upwards using the pliers such that it is level with the top surface. No need to be perfect.

Before we go to the motor isolation base, snap in the thrust bearing to the bottom of the motor after adding two or three drops of light oil. It's simple (as shown in the picture).

Tape the motor wires with electrical insulating tape for insulation as well as preventing the motor vibration from reaching the board.

Place the motor onto the motor base and align the mounting holes of the motor flanges with the thread holes on the base. Use the screws provided to hold the motor tightly in place.

Remember to tighten the screws alternatively between the motor flanges to ensure even pressure being applied on both sides.

Use the plastic bracket and the screw to hold down the rubber mesh netting on one side first (next to the brass bearing housing) before putting back the motor base/motor.

Put the motor back to the motor compartment. Affix the cork stickers to the motor base as shown. Cover and secure the other side of the rubber mesh netting with plastic bracket and screw. The rubber mesh netting should be a bit slack (7-8 mm) such that in upright position, the motor is not touching the plinth and the pulley stays within the pulley hole when the turntable is lifted up .

Change the original rubber feet to the new taller ones as shown. You may use the original mounting screws .

Alternatively, you can upgrade to aluminium feet (à la P7/P9) using existing rubber feet for better turntable isolation.

Turn over the turntable now. Align the pulley in the centre of the hole making sure the whole assembly (pulley+motor+motor base) is not in contact with any part of the plinth.

The pulley grooves (and the belts) should aligned within +- 4 mm higher or lower from the centre of the sub-platter.

Put the silicone belt on to test.

Fine adjustment in pulley height might be required to align the pulley with different types of sub-platters you used. Stainless steel or brass washers (50 mm( 2") x 2 mm) could be used between motor and motor base to adjust the height of pulley assembly if necessary.

Step 2 : Upgrading to aluminium sub-platter and acrylic platter

Replacing the original resin sub-platter with anti-resonance aluminium sub-platter is a breeze. Remember to oil the stainless steel shaft with suitable lubricant before inserting it into the brass bearing housing.

I am sure everyone knows what to do with this 24 mm acrylic platter.

Step 3 : To fix 3-point VTA spacer and underslung counterweight

Loosen the tonearm cable clip.

Use a adjustable spanner to loosen the tonearm hexagonal nut in order to remove the RB300 tonearm.

Now you can remove the nut by hand.

Remove the tonearm from board.

Put the serrated 3-point spacer in place.

Put back the tonearm and hand-tighten the nut. The serrated stainless steel spacer now semi-decouples the tonearm from board while maintaining the rigidity.

Lastly, fix the anti-resonance adaptor for counter weight with allen key. Adjust the underslung counterweight with help of a stylus tracking force guage.

Step 4 : Sit back now and treat yourself to some wonderful music.......

Besides the above upgrades, you may add a suitable isolation platform of your choice.

Now you have a capable audiophile machine to enjoy beautiful analog music. It will sound as good as many more expensive models of turntables you find in the market!

Happy tweaking!

Rega P5 upgrades : Stainless steel metal pulley and silicone belts

2011-09-12T19:56:00.001-07:00

Unlike the other earlier models of Rega turntables, including its predecessor P25, Rega P5 turntable comes with a different pulley. Its aluminium metal pulley does look better and it's believed to perform better than the plastic ones also.

But by replacing the aluminium pulley with stainless steel dual pulley and spinning the sub-platter with higher energy and hence steadier speed using twin silicone belts, many P5 owners discover great sonic improvements in P5.

Take a look at Fabio's Rega P5 upgrades using stainless steel dual pulley and silicone belts :

Picture : courtesy of Fabio of São Paulo, Brazil

Here's Fabio's feedback on the stainless steel dual pulley and silicone belts upgrades :

Hi Michael,

What can I say, after two weeks using the dual pulley + silicon belts upgrades is that the improvement

is stunning!!!

Reaches full speed more quickly and remains there.

When the music starts, everything is well defined and sounding like it should.

Excellent separation of instruments. Piano and string instruments sound very clear.

One of the best upgrades available for Rega tables. No doubt about it!

Best regards

Fabio

Thank you, Fabio !

Removing Rega tonearm end-stub and fixing the counterweight

2011-09-08T00:45:00.000-07:00

A) Removing the end-stub :

i) Plastic end-stub (RB100, RB250 and RB 251)

First remove the steel counterweight by turning it anti-clockwise until it is completely out.

Next, hold the end-stub firmly and unscrew it gently out of the tonearm. Make sure the tonearm is locked before applying force to the end-stub.

ii) Metal end-stub ( RB300, RB301, RB600, RB700, RB900 and RB1000)

Tools required:

i) WD40

ii) a pair of slip joint pliers as shown (most suitable)

iii) a piece of thick rag

Remove the stainless steel counterweight first (refer to above). Spray some WD40 at the joint between the end-stub and the tonearm. Wait for several minutes for chemical to work its way into the thread.

Then cover the end-stub with a piece of thick rag. With one hand holding the tonearm firmly, the other hand grabs the end-stub with the pliers and turn (as shown in the picture) anti-clockwise with enough force to loosen it.

Normally one turn is enough to loosen the end-stub. However, for some stubborn units, you may need to make one extra turn in order that it's fully loosened to be unscrewed out by hand. Spray a bit more of WD40 if necessary.

B) Installing the underslung stainless steel counterweight :

Fix the new stainless steel end-stub by turning it clockwise until hand-tight.

Install the adaptor tube and lock it with the Allen key provided.

Slide in the stainless steel underslung counter-weight.

Adjust the VTF ( vertical tracking force) by moving the weight to-and-fro along the tube. Lock it at the right position.

( A stylus tracking force gauge is required here.)

Working on a Linn Axis

2011-09-02T05:47:00.000-07:00

Linn axis is basically a manual belt driven turntable. And unlike the typical Linn with "sprung suspension", Axis's rubber suspension gives no headache to its owner as far as "adjustment" is concerned. It also has a built-in electronic circuit board for speed control which makes speed selection (33rpm/45rpm) simple by just pressing the push button only. By looking at its single point bearing (without a ball bearing) which is similar to that of Linn LP12, I can say it's a very fine "budget" turntable in construction. Even the motor is mounted on the circuit board which is separated from the suspension chassis. Both speeds (33.3/45 rpm) can be fine-tuned from the electronic circuit board only.

For one who loves to tweak, where shall I begin? Well ..... "sad" to say, there is not much to be done in this case. Linn Axis indeed is a turntable very suitable for one who is not interested in any tweaking.

Linn Axis with Akito tonearm

Metal sub-platter with thick flat rubber belt

The single point bearing, a good feature in this TT

The motor is mounted on the circuit board

After adjusting the rubber suspension, I tested out the Linn Axis with Akito tonearm that came with it. The result was found to be not as impressive as I thought it should be. Changing to Rega tonearm and adding a serrated 3-point spacer was immediately done.

The counter-weight was also replaced with the underslung counter-weight for better performance.

Though Linn Axis is regarded as a poor man's Linn, after listening to it personally, I think it's comparable to stock Rega P3-24 with TTPSU. However, I can't say which is better as each and every turntable has its own characteristic sound. Some may like the way Rega sounds while others may prefer Linn to Rega .... . It all boils down to individual preference. But one thing for sure, Rega is a better choice for tweakers as it can be tweaked to the hilt.

Whatever it is, as long as you enjoy your choice, I think that's the best choice for you (at least for the time being!), my friend.

진욱's Rega RP1 with metal pulley and motor thrust bearing upgrade

2011-08-30T18:03:00.000-07:00

Thanks to 진욱, for sending me the following beautiful pictures of his system with metal pulley and motor thrust bearing upgrades.

Here's Rega RP1 of 진욱, South Korea :

Pictures : courtesy of 진욱 of South Korea

Not all models of Rega turntables come with upgraded motors which are fitted with motor thrust bearings. So if it happens you are planning to upgrade to stainless steel metal pulley, it is worthwhile to consider this motor thrust bearing upgrade in order to optimize the result.

Krise's DIY turntable project - Tables will turn

2011-08-24T18:21:00.000-07:00

When Krise of Germany told me that he would be using my stainless steel metal pulley in his on-going DIY turntable project, I was curious and eager to see his very special turntable. What a pity I wouldn't be able to hear the "SOUND" he has spent so much time and effort to build!

Each and every DIY turntable is unique and of great interest to me; there are also a lot of fine points in the creation of these DIY turntables that I can learn from all the fellow enthusiasts around the world!

So I waited patiently for his master-piece to be completed .... .

And here it is ....

Krise, in his blog, Tables will turn shared his DIY experience in detail; it's very informative and interesting.....

Pictures: courtesy of Kris of Germany

My metal pulley in his "Funk Firm design" TT

Resonance control material

(find out what they are.....)

Applying the anti-resonance material

The Motor

Of course, this is not all.....

Visit Krise's blog to discover more ......

Thanks, Krise, for sharing with us!

Upgrade your resin sub-platter and plastic pulley ......

2011-08-13T06:08:00.000-07:00

When I first started to tweak my Rega turntables, I knew aluminium sub-platter was something I would go ahead with without hesitation. Strongly believing in there's a reason why aluminium sub-platters were used in P7 and P9, I didn't want to miss this part of the sonic improvement for sure!

As I'd expected, the result of experimenting with the anti-resonance aluminium sub-platter was good - I noticed very substantial sonic improvement after replacing the stock resin sub-platter with aluminium sub-platter!

So I always advise: Don't forget to upgrade the resin sub-platter to the anti-resonance aluminium sub-platter. And if the plastic pulley is also replaced by a metal one at the same time for better energy transfer, you will definitely not be disappointed....

Sharing with you here :

Aluminium sub-platter and standard stainless steel pulley (33.3/45 rpm) upgrades on Planar 3 - from Lasse Brodsgaard of Denmark

Pictures : courtesy of Lasse Brodsgaard of Denmark

Lasse Brodsgaard says :

It has given a little more air to the music, better sound separation and tighter bass.

Thanks, Lasse!

Experimenting on Thorens TD295 MK III ....

2011-08-04T14:24:00.000-07:00

A friend of mine has a Thorens TD295 MK III. This turntable has been used for years to play his favourite LPs, but it shows no trace of "aging"; still very fine and elegant it looks. The glossy finish for the upper layer of the plinth is the trick.

The motor speed for this turntable is electronically controlled and end-of-play auto-stop is another add-on feature to this manual turntable.

No mod has been done on this turntable so far and now my friend is looking for some mod to improve its performance. I take a look at it and feel that something needs to be done to the hard-mounted "vibrating" motor which runs "finger-burning" hot after playing just for a while. I suggest he uses my motor isolation base which serves as both vibration and heat sink.

Since most turntables in the market are using similar AC synchronous motors, these motors fit into my isolation bases well like the Rega motors. But in this case, there is not much free-play in the quite "tight-fitting" motor compartment. So the part where the motor flanges are hard-mounted to, has to be trimmed off slightly. It's a simple job anyway and takes me not more than 10 minutes to cut the screw mounting holes into V-shape grooves (as shown). I am extra careful when trimming so as not to break the "super-short" motor wires (see picture below).

While putting back the motor, I make sure that the motor flanges, motor and motor base are not touching the plinth in the motor compartment. Do you notice there is a small gap at the motor flange?

Put on the rubber belt after aligning the pulley with the sub-platter and my job is almost done!

The motor base now sits under the plinth, "fully isolated". For this TD295 MK III TT, a number of brass spacers are used with the motor isolation base because it has a very much thicker plinth compared to that of Rega TT's. Besides the upper glossy layer (about the thickness of Rega P1 plinth), there is an additional lower layer which consists of four sandwiched layers of MDF board. The rubber feet are also replaced with slightly taller ones to accommodate the height of the motor base.

The modded Thorens TD295 MK III equipped with Ortofon MC15 Super II cartridge is finally ready for testing. Let's see the difference ....

The first thing I notice is that the motor (also the rubber belt) runs much cooler. Earlier I can't even put my finger on the "hot" motor for more than 5 seconds. And I don't feel the motor vibration now when placing my finger on the part of plinth just around the motor. Both the motor and the belt would last longer with this "cooling" effect.

The sonic improvement is substantial with wider and deeper soundstage, clear and distinctive sound of various musical instruments and of course lower noise floor.

It's real joy listening to Nini's Trumpet "IL SILENZIO" in stereo and Acker Bilk's Jazz Band in mono after the motor isolation base mod. For those who are looking for a good preowned turntable, this is another model you can go for. Not forgetting to mention here also other than a well-designed plinth, Thorens TD295 MK III comes with a heavy (~2.4 kg) zinc alloy platter too.

Upgrading Pro-ject P1.2 with motor isolation base ???

2011-08-01T21:09:00.000-07:00

I was surprised to receive an interesting enquiry from a non-Rega turntable user : " Can your motor isolation base be used on my Pro-ject P1.2 turntable?"

Generally speaking, I find many Rega turntable owners are still quite sceptical about this unconventional upgrade of isolating motor vibration though the concept of out-board motor is actually nothing new to any turntable lover!

The idea of motor isolation base "evolved" when I was tweaking my Planar 2/3. I was doing it with Rega turntables in mind only. And now someone is exploring the possibility of using it on turntables of other makes - something I have never expected.....

Fortunately, I still have my old Pro-ject P1.2 which is collecting dust in my store-room. I am happy to take it out to test with my motor isolation base upgrade.

At a glance, Pro-ject P1.2 looks quite the same as Rega turntable, but with thicker fiber-board plinth.

Surprisingly this budget turntable comes with a heavier alloy platter(~2.4 kg). The plastic sub-platter is of bigger diameter and thus the aluminum pulley too.

The suspended motor mounting is quite similar to that of Rega Planar 2 and Planar 3 i.e. it is mounted to a metal top plate which is held in place with rubber band to the plinth. This way of mounting is not ideal as when the motor runs, it wobbles at the same time. This causes a slight speed variations which in turn affects the quality of sound tracked by the cartridge.

Removing the motor, I find it fits the motor isolation base perfectly. The problem is: the original motor flanges sit directly on the plinth, in the small "motor compartment". Clearly, this part of the plinth (in the motor compartment) has to be trimmed slightly (as shown) in order that the motor (with the base), would not contact the plinth.

Putting the motor back into the motor compartment (after the trimmed part is darken with a marker pen).

Check to make sure the motor (already secured with screws onto the motor base) is not touching the plinth. Align the pulley before putting on the rubber belt.

Change the rubber feet to accommodate the height of the motor isolation base.

For transportation, the motor (with motor base) is held with the existing rubber band and the metal bracket with transport screws. No rubber mesh netting is required.

The Pro-ject P1.2 with motor isolation base upgrade is ready to run. After playing a few familiar lp's, I notice substantial sonic improvement with lower noise floor and clearer details. The stylus can track better now in the absence of motor vibration and speed shifts due to suspended motor mounting using rubber band.

So what's is the answer? Why not let you decide yourself !

*Some additional pictures of Pro-ject P1.2 turntable might be of interest to you :

"Non-magnetic" alloy platter (top and bottom view)

Pro-ject 8.6"tonearm with adjustable VTA

Main bronze bearing (top and bottom view)

16VAC Synchronous motor & control (covers removed)

Feedback from Arthur of California who also uses motor isolation base for his Pro-ject 2.9 wood:

The isolation base does make a big difference, I don't hear the motor since it is well isolated from the plinth. Thanks again Michael for the invention. I now enjoy listening to my table more than listening to CD's."